Best places in the walled city of Jaipur for a local breakfast

We're talking desi brekkie that is delicious, comforting, inexpensive and any vegetarian's dream

Nov 30, 2022

Let’s take you on a breakfast spree of sugar and spice, everything nice

Sitting miles away from Jaipur, what’s the one thing I miss the most about home? I’m sorry mom, but it has to be the quick, accessible, and extremely flavourful food in the walled city. Living here, you can’t not be a street food junkie. And thanks to my dad and his love for feeding people, there’s no hawker or shop in the bazaar I’ve not tried - which I guess makes me a credible person to talk about the best places in the old city for desi (local) breakfast.

While some spots are world-famous (really), others you just chance upon. And trust me, you’re in for the most delicious and comforting delicacies of India - think kachori (spicy, deep-fried snack), poha (sweet and tangy flattened rice flakes), daal pakodi (lentil fritters) and more.

So, if you live in Jaipur or are planning a visit, these eateries should definitely be on your radar. Since all these places are in the old city (except one) and quite close to each other, you can actually go breakfast-hopping on foot or in an e-rickshaw.

1. Samrat Restaurant

Trusted by the local people as the ultimate breakfast spot, this place in the heart of the old city serves the spongiest of khaman (gram flour steamed cakes) with lemon juice and chilly dressing, crispy and piping hot kesariya jalebis (sugar syrup filled rings infused with saffron), ginger chai and a whole lot of spicy snacks like vada pav (fried potato dumpling stuffed in buns), kachori and samosa (deep-fried snacks with spicy potato filling), bread pakoda (bread slices dipped in spiced gram flour batter and fried), mirchi vada (stuffed chilli fritters) and more.

Psst…don’t count your calories, you wanna avoid the guilt!

Address: Shop no. 273, Chaura Rasta, Pink City, Bapu Bazaar, Biseswarji, Jaipur

Khaman with Jalebi at Samrat is the ‘it’ winter breakfast

2. Shri Balaji Poha Bhandar

Right outside Samrat is a hawker whose onion-chopping skills are so oddly satisfying that you wouldn’t realise you’ve been gawking until he finally hands you a plate of warm poha (sweet and tangy flattened rice flakes) topped with green chillies, red chilli powder, coriander, pomegranate and onion (du-uh). Cherry (or namkeen) on top? He tops every serving with a handful of namkeen (sweet and savoury munchies).

A large plate comes for just INR 40 (40 pence). I know!

Address: Shop no. 280, main Chaura Rasta, opposite SBI bank, Jaipur

A flavour festival with Balaji’s poha

3. GC Dairy

If you’re in Chaura Rasta and have already smashed a few kachoris and some poha, it’s time for something sweet. GC dairy next door to Samrat is just the place. An old couple lovingly serves meetha makkhan (sweet and softened butter), lassi (sweet buttermilk) and namkeen chaach (savoury buttermilk).

The best part? They’ve been sustainable since before it was a trend. The dairy serves makkhan on plant leaves and buttermilk in kulhad (earthen pots).

Address: Shop no. 280, main Chaura Rasta, opposite SBI bank, Jaipur

GC Dairy’s makkhan topped with pistachios is second to none

4. Hawkers opposite Saraogi Mansion

From Chaura Rasta, hop on an e-rickshaw and head to Saraogi Mansion for a veggie-loaded Bombay sandwich. It gets its name from the Indian city it originated in - Mumbai (previously Bombay). Blindly trust any hawker out of the many for this triple-layered sandwich with slices of onion, tomato and boiled potato. Each slice of bread is generously smeared with tangy coriander chutney, butter and seasoned with salt and pepper.

Also try their sev puri (crackers topped with vegetables and sweet and spicy chutneys) and bhel puri to replace the crackers with puffed rice. These aren’t breakfast courses but who cares? And, if you’re feeling especially adventurous, ask the Bhaiya (hawker) to make your order extra spicy (that’s how I like mine), and thank me later. Not for the faint of heart.

Address: MI Road, Bapu Bazar, Biseswarji, Jaipur

You’ll keep coming back to the Bombay sandwich opposite Saraogi

5. Jagannath Sharma Pakodi Wale

Run by a fourth-generation halwai (cook), the shop is tucked in one of the busiest marketplaces of Jaipur - Tripolia. Relish their daal ki pakodi (lentil fritters) and aloo ke pakode (potato fritters) as you witness the bazaar come alive. Ask for a spoonful of coriander chutney to dip your snacks in.

Heads up: You might have to wiggle your way in through a few elbows and piercing looks but trust me, it’s worth it.

Address: 162, Tripolia Bazaar, Malve Nagar, JDA Market, Pink City, Jaipur

People queue outside Jagannath for their spicy fritters

6. Khunteta Namkeen Bhandar

Their aloo kachori (potato fried snack) will leave you with a runny nose, hissing mouth and burning lips yet - craving for one more. If you think I’m exaggerating, try one for yourself and don’t forget to ask for their USP, the dry pudina (mint) chutney.

Add some mirchi ke bhuje (green chilli fritters) on the side and voila, you’ve experienced Jaipur in a bite!

Address: Shop no. 90, Kishanpole Bazaar corner, Ankron Ka Rasta, Jaipur

The crowd is a testament to how delicious Khunteta’s kachoris are

7. Shrinath Lassiwala

An entire row on MI Road belongs to Lassiwalas, all of which claim to be ‘the original’ Lassiwala but take my word, any outlet is just as good. Get yourself a tall kulhad (clay cutlery) of chilled lassi (sweetened buttermilk) topped with a thick, succulent layer of malai (cream) garnished with kesar (saffron) and pistachios.

I may or may not lick the kulhad after I’m done chugging the lassi. Try it before you judge me is all I’m saying!

Address: Ground floor, shop no. 314 Mirza Ismail Road, near Raj Mandir Cinema Hall, Jaipur

Shrinath’s lassi comes with a hearty dollop of cream

8. Rawat Mishthan Bhandar

This place had to be on my list as Rawat is every Jaipurite’s Sunday breakfast at least twice a month. The place is best known across the country for its pyaz ki kachori (pockets of fried dough stuffed with onion and garlic) which it also parcels up nationally. Eat as many as you can, dip them in imli (tamarind) chutney and even get some packed for the day. Crispy with robust flavours, the kachori is the souvenir you’ve to take for your relatives back home.

Rawat also serves an array of Indian snacks and other breakfast options at both its outlets.

Old outlet: Station Road, in front of Polo Victory Hotel, Sindhi Camp, Jaipur

New outlet: The Grand Anukampa, Elevated Ajmer Road exit, Jaipur

Rawat’s pyaz ki kachori is fried to perfection

9. Deepu Brijwasi Fast Food Centre

My dad stumbled upon this place on one of his food escapades and since then, Deepu has been our go-to for hearty breakfasts or when we have family and friends over. A local eatery with a deep Kadhai (vessel) on its shopfront, the place serves hands down the best bedmi poori (unleavened fried bread made with lentils) served with aloo ki sabzi (tangy potato curry).

Fun fact: My sister’s in-laws loved the poori sabzi so much that now, they parcel it up to their relatives on festivals.

Address: Jai Lal Munshi ka Rasta, Chandpole Bazaar, Jaipur

Deepu’s poori sabzi might keep you full till lunchtime

A special shout-out to my little brothers Raghav and Shanky for these lovely portraits while I’m away.

Why is the walled city called the Pink City?

I came across this monocle that aptly describes the ‘pink’ in Pink City. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it too.

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